As you know from previous posts I recently went on a month long trek through south east Asia. Before I left on my trip I was a bit nervous about all the things going wrong on an extended trip such as that - especially since I was a female traveling alone. However, once I started my adventure and got into traveling mode all my worries melted away and I had a great time. There were definitely a few highlights to the trip and I'll write a post about them after I upload a few photos from each country I visited. It probably will take some time to get everything uploaded and posted but I'll try to do it sooner rather than later so I can also post a few entries about life in Korea.

Below are a few photos and experiences from my first stop - the city/state of Singapore.

Singapore

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Singapore has the distinction of being the first English-speaking country I've ever visited outside of the USA. I'm fortunate to speak the language that is the current international language of business and travelers so traipsing around foreign countries is a bit easier for me than say, the Russian family I met in Laos with limited English. However, I guess I've just grown accustomed to some of the communication issues when traveling abroad because it took me awhile in Singapore to realize it was so easy to get around. Signs are in English (with Chinese, Malay and Tamil translations) as were menus and nearly everyone I encountered spoke English fluently. I think I'll definitely have to add a few more English speaking countries to my travel itinerary for the future because it was wonderful to be able to communicate easily and effectively.

I only spent a day and a half in Singapore because the country is incredibly small (it's a city-state) but very expensive in comparison to the rest of south east Asia. I focused most of my time there on two areas of interest - flowers and Indian culture. I spent most of Sunday exploring the beautiful Botanic Gardens and later on in the vibrant Little India neighborhood.



Singapore Botanic Gardens

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Located in the city sits the 183 acre Botanic Gardens. The gardens offer refuge from the hustle and bustle of the city enticing visitors with its lush grassy lawns, quiet lakes and intriguing public art. For me the highlight of the gardens was the orchid garden - a small section of the larger gardens which boasts a variety of brightly colored orchids.

I spent a couple of hours in the garden Sunday morning and relished  not only the beautiful flora but also seeing the locals enjoy and take advantage of all the garden has to offer - something that reminded me of Chicagoans and the lakefront.


Little India

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Singapore is a diverse country with a population made up mostly of Chinese, Malay and Indians. One of the reasons I wanted to visit Singapore was because of it's large Indian population. My research was on diasporic Hindu traditions in the United States and I was curious to see how Hinduism was praticed in other countries. Unlike in the United States where the majority of Asian Indians are  highly educated relatively recent immigrants who are employed in professional jobs the Indian community in Singapore dates back over a hundred years and inhabits a variety of socio-economic roles. Though I was there only for a day and a half I managed to visit 3 different temples and observed that Hinduism in Singapore was practiced much more closely to its Vedic roots than it is in the USA.

I spent part of Sunday in Little India - enjoying some really tasty food, peeking in to shops and visiting temples. The neighborhood was almost exclusively Indian and the smells and sounds were reminiscent of India which I traveled to last year.



Sri Mariamman Temple

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Of the three temples I visited Singapore's oldest temple, the Sri Mariamman Temple, isn't located in Little India but instead on the periphery of Chinatown. I visited this temple multiple times during my short visit to Singapore because of it's close location to my hostel. I was able to observe the priests conducting a daily ritual in addition to people worshiping at the temple. The experience gave me a different perspective on diasporic Hinduism which is useful for my own research.

For a small fee you can take pictures throughout the temple which was elaborately decorated with statues of animals and gods. The temple is unlike something most people in the U.S. have seen so I wanted to share a few photos.

 
As I mentioned in a previous post I teach 4 hours of after school class a week to 13 grade 1 students in high school. On the first day of class I asked students to write down things they would be interested in studying - and most of them said other cultures. After a few lessons on Halloween I decided to start a series of lessons I call "A Passport Around the World" - during each 2 hour long class we'd talk about a country on a different continent. We started off our first lesson on India which happened to coincide with Diwali, the festival of lights. Diwali is the biggest festival celebrated throughout India and I had already begun preparing feverishly for a private dinner I was hosting in honor of the holiday. Since my students have very limited exposure to other cultures I decided to bring in a tasting of Indian food for them. I wasn't surprised many of them didn't care for the curry since they rarely eat anything not Korean except for a few very Koreanized Western foods. And I was a bit disappointed that a couple of students seemed to have not even tried the food because they were put off by the strange appearance and smells.  However, I was really happy to hear that some of them enjoyed the food and saw that they had cleared their plates. What did surprise me was that at the end of class a few of the students came up and thanked me for the food and that they appreciated the new experience.
 
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Last week I received my first "real" package which was the highlight of my day. While I've received packages before they were filled mostly with things I had ordered myself and requested to be forwarded on to Korea therefore it was pretty exciting to receive an unexpected box of goodies from my friend Chaitanya's family. I had stayed with her family while I was in India and I guess her mother was impressed with my love for the food so she sent me a box of home made papad (lentil wafers) and some spicy ground chilis and peanuts.

Just a few days before my package arrived I had actually sent a package to them. While I was in India my friend's family, friends and neighbors had gone out of their way to make me feel welcome so I sent some candy for everyone and a few small gifts for her family and the local children for the (then) upcoming festival of Diwali. My friend sent me a message to tell me that the package had arrived and was met with a lot of excitement which I was quite thrilled to hear because I still remember how wonderful everyone was to me and though it was a small gesture I wanted them to know how thankful I was for their kindness.

 
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I arrived in Bangalore late Saturday evening and after collecting my baggage and making my way through immigration I passed through the sliding doors separating the restricted section of the airport and the general public where I encountered a breeze of fresh warm air. Though it was well after 10pm at night the airport was still abuzz with people and so it was a bit difficult to find my friend and her mother who I was meeting. Chaitanya and I know each other from graduate school back in the US. We met through the friendship family program at our university, which at the time I coordinated. Familiar with the difficulties and isolation of living abroad I wanted to help ease the adjustment of international students into life in America. Chaitanya was the first of many friendship students while I was at BSU but she also was the one I grew closest to and eventually our relationship transitioned from friendship family into good friends. Therefore when she invited me to India to attend her wedding I immediately began to research the possibility and was thrilled when received my visa and could plan a trip to the subcontinent.

After meeting up with Chaitanya, her mother and family at the airport we began the 3 hour drive back to their town. The sky was pitch black and the air was warm and dusty. At one point we pulled off the road due to a flat tire and while they changed it Chaitanya and I wandered to a small stand where we purchased fresh green coconut. The elderly woman lopped off the top and stuffed in a straw and we both slowly sipped the slightly sweet taste of coconut water. As we stood along the side of the road under the dark sky enjoying the refreshing drink with a cool breeze causing me to feel chilled I realized I really was in India. I have always planned on traveling to India but I imagined my first visit to extend for months or even years when I moved to India for research. However, now I can see that those two brief weeks in Andhra Pradesh were the perfect introduction to the beautiful chaos that embodies India. Below are a few highlights of my trip.


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The People
India is as welcoming as it is colorful. In the short two weeks I was there I experienced more hospitality than in all the months I have lived in Korea. People were incredibly kind and gracious - though by Western standards they did not have much and we were separated by a difference in language I was welcomed into their homes where they were eager to feed me, talk to me and share their lives with me.

I am most thankful to Chaitanya's family who opened up their home to me for the two weeks I was there - they fed me, cared for me and tolerated my quirky Western ways. Though we relied on Chaitanya to translate for us her mother and aunty's incredible warmth transcended the language and cultural differences.

The friendliness and warm-hearted nature of the Indian people has made my adjustment back to my more subdued life in Korea a bit difficult. It seems India is a better match for me personally than Korea.


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MahaKali
Our trip to Kanchi in Tamil Nadu was a blur of color where we spent hours looking over thousands of yards of brightly hued intricately woven silk sari. However, for me, the highlight of the day  was a stop at a Kali temple alongside the highway on our way home. I have been interested in studying goddess worship, specifically of Kali for years. Earlier in the day I was not permitted entrance into another goddess temple because I was a foreigner and therefore the inclusive nature of the temple priest at this mandir was especially meaningful. He allowed us into the room with the murti of the goddess and chatted with us for a brief time before blessing us as we left. I was joking when I declared at the temple it was the highlight of the trip at that moment but even now it stands out in my memory.


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A Pilgrimage
I've been studying localized practices of Hinduism for a few years now and I was determined to see as many temples as possible on my trip to India. I am thankful to the Rao family, neighbors of Chaitanya's parents, who invited me along for a day long pilgrimage to 5 different temples throughout Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh. The temples were dedicated to Lord Siva, Sri Venkateswara, the goddess, Ganapati and Hanuman-ji - at each one the family sponsored archana, a short ritual led by a priest.

This experience gave me a new perspective on Hindu temple worship and the ability to observe the differences not only between temples in the United States and India but also between temples within India.


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Puja
The days leading up to a Hindu wedding involve a plethora of events and I had a up close and personal view of all of them. I was incredibly honored to not only observe but also participate in so many of the important rituals leading up to and subsequently during the wedding. I accompanied the family to the Ganesha temple where we prayed for new beginnings, I offered advice during sari shopping and was completely mesmerized by the glittering gold in the jewelry shops. I nervously smeared turmeric onto Chaitanya's face during one ritual, afraid I'd ruin her sari and I poured grains of rice over the bride and groom's head and offered well-wishes during the engagement party.  In other words I was there alongside other family and friends, an active participant in the events - this is how I enjoy to travel - not as an outsider but as someone embraced within the culture by the people around me. It truly was a memorable trip.

 
Indian weddings are as colorful as India herself and are in stark contrast to the austere nature of weddings in the West. They are a lively mixture of bright hues, cacophonous noise and ancient rituals. I was fortunate to have been invited to partake in many of the different activities and rituals leading up to the wedding in addition to portions of the actual ceremony. It was an incredibly memorable experience which I will forever be thankful to my friend and her family for welcoming me into their home and including me in such an important event. Visit the India page under the Globe Trekker tab (or click here) to see more pictures from the wedding and my experiences in India.